Off Route

2011-04-08T16:30:00.000-07:00

I had a great, and snowy, day out with Dr. Roger Härtl on Professor falls. Roger was in Banff for a medical conference (from NYC), and like any climber did his best to fit in some time in the vertical. We met just before noon at the Fairmont Banff Springs (we had 6 hrs to get after it).

In no time we where at the trailhead and walking along the Bow River towards a real Rockies classic. With the time we had the objective was the journey not the top of Professor Falls 280m, WI4. We still managed to climb up to the last pitch before it was time to head down.

Dr Roger Härtl, Professor Falls from John Freeman on Vimeo.

People ask me sometimes, "who climbs ice?" Roger is a perfect example of and ice climber. Born in Germany, lives/works in New York and travels the world. In fact as I post this Dr. Roger Hartl is prepping to be a guest of the King Abdullah bin Abdul-Aziz and the Saudi royal family for a day of camel racing.
He is still a family man and like so many other climbers it is about a sense of adventure.

2011-03-06T07:53:00.000-08:00

I had heard of Andrew Langsford for years. Some of the stories were outrageous but all were hilarious.

The first time that I met Andrew was on the Athabasca glacier in a complete whiteout. I was retreating from an attempt at the Silverhorn with 1 guest and a hooded man walked up through the maelstrom with 3 folks trustingly following their brave guide as he navigated his way through tiger country. We exchanged greetings and a few words at a yell to be heard over the roar of the wind. That was the first time.

Then in January I responded to a informalex post. "Assistant alpine guide wanted", to help instruct College of the Rockies students from the Golden campus in the ways of the ice. The post came from Andrew. I emailed straight away from my iPhone to secure the work.

The Man, mowing his wheatgrass.

The first days of the course were out of Golden and Andrew played the role of gracious host. Feeding me tasty concoctions of wheatgrass, beats, ginger and a host of other organics blended or juiced. I felt cleansed and healthy after good nights sleep in the welcome warmth of the wood stove.

As we readied for our first day of work Andrew let me in on his health situation. Not good. Andrew was battling cancer but was in remission. He just wanted to give me the heads up incase anything was to happen during the course. By the end of the week I was feeling like I was a better guide for having worked along side Andrew. He had a sardonic wit that broke barriers and put people at ease. Unless his sarcastic and razor sharp mind were turned at you. He wouldn't put up with bullshit and always called it as he saw it.

Fair and evenhanded as well as a consummate professional Mountain Guide.

I know I am not alone in missing Andrew.

I like to imagine him on some high peak in the alpine, with the sun shining and a couple of happy guests on the rope as he guides the ridge.

Extreme new route on Everest?

2011-02-26T09:45:00.000-08:00

Everyone wants to be "#1 on top"

Real Big Drip

2011-02-26T08:14:00.000-08:00

When you drive into the Ghost River one sight draws everyones' attention. The Real Big Drip grabs you and won't let go. Big fat ice that flows from the drainage and reduces to a tantalizing trickle one pitch short of the ground.

After watching a good friend's video of the climb, Rob Smith and I rolled in to the ghost to give this classic a go. We reasoned that with steep climbing we could use the help of the warming Chinook winds for our attempt. At the end of January our time came.
The Real Big Drip from John Freeman on Vimeo.

RBD Jan 26th 2011

Early AM and the Chinook arch

Rob lost in thought

Don't forget your tools.

Rob at the belay.

Rob trying to convince my of the station quality.... Dubious.

Comfortable stance P1

Delicate climbing.

Post crux. My usual on-sight ability was absent. Managed the OS ;)

Following great cracks and face holds to the ice

Happy at the station, P3, after the OS. The big crack and big ice behind stopped us cold.

We tried to get out from behind the curtain at the top. No joy. Lots of ice with big cracks left us wondering if kicking at the curtain would bring the whole house down.

After spending a lot of time on this option we decided to go down.

A great day of climbing, even without the Cumbre!

Mt. Hector: a tale of roadside Ski-mountaineering

2011-02-21T17:58:00.000-08:00

A few weeks ago I got together with 3 buddies for a great day of ski-mountineering. Road-side objectives in the Rockies abound. Mt. Hector at 3394m has got to be one of the best for an easy winter day out.

Wexler fuelling his soul and stomach

Master Briggs looking for a fight?

Bender looking into oblivion.

Ben and I spend most of our time climbing so skiing like this to any summit is a great. I think Wex and Briggs were amused by how much we enjoyed the down since the drop of the summit was like skiing 40° concrete. It improved to boot-top pow in no time.

Celebs go Extreme

2011-02-04T17:02:00.000-08:00

A few months ago I had the opportunity to work safety on a German language TV shoot here in the Rockies. The premise was to have German celebrities matched up with Red Bull extreme athletes to have them experience the extreme sport. In this case it was Jessica Schwartz climbing ice with Will Gadd.

I had just returned from 2 months in the middle-east so the -30° temps were a bit hard on me after working in temps up to 57°C, but the experiences was still a blast.

As is often the case, the cast behind the camera was just as impressive as the talent in front of the lens:

Barry Blanchard (too many hard alpine first assents to list. Mountain Guide)
Pat Morrow (1st person to summit all 7 summits)
Glen Crawford (Father of 2 Olympians and gifted cameraman)
Keith Haberl (Rockies-ice hardman before I ever picked up a tool)
Josh "Squash Briggs (Well... he's "Briggs")
Andrew Querner (Photographer extrodinaire restlessplanet)
and several other folks.

I got to say it was solid learning to watch the action. There is a reason that Will G is as successful and famous as he is. The man comes prepared and works hard. That and a boat load of talent.

Here are a few images from the last day of shooting:

Will attending to details. Glen Crawford with camera and "Q" looking relaxed

Pat Morrow hidden out of frame in a perch that I set up for him (Middle left-side of ice)

Barry "Bubba" Blanchard keeping an eye on things

Self-portrait @ -30°

Cumbre!

This is the link to the video from our "extreme" days out.
http://www.servustv.com/cs/Satellite/Article/Celebs-go-Extreme-011259329527121

Cole's perspective on Evan Thomas

2011-02-02T07:54:00.000-08:00

Here is Cole's view of our day out. The last part of the video shows " Cry of the Snow Lion". As you can see there was no pro used on the lower part of the route. Well, no ice screws anyway. Cole didn't hesitate one bit about climbing this. I think the only reason we stopped climbing was that we ran out of ice and time that day.

On Top - Canmore Ice from ccstanley on Vimeo.

Evan Thomas Creek in Three Parts

2011-02-01T18:57:00.000-08:00

You got to love ice climbing. Especially when good climbers get together on fun routes under solid weather. This little video shows just that.

Cole came up from Colorado for work and took an extra day for a little bit of climbing. We had an early start and Cole is a solid climber so we sent the routes in Evan Thomas. Snowline, Moonlight, and the rarely formed Call of the Snow Lion.

Evan Thomas Creek with Cole Stanley for On Top Mountaineering from John Freeman on Vimeo.

SAR's on Ice

2011-01-27T17:53:00.000-08:00

Just spent a couple of days on ice with some of the friendliest bad-asses you could ever meet.

Joel Manaigre, Eric Beaudoin, Ben Rasmussen and Carl Portman came out west (the 4 are SAR Tech's based in Winnipeg) for some winter training. We spent 2 days going over climbing and anchor systems for ice. Day 1 was spent in Hafner Creek. Day 2: Mike Stuart and I took the lads out to Evan Thomas Creek to get our multi-pitch on.

SAR Technicians: Each CF aircraft deployed on a SAR mission includes two Search and Rescue Technicians (SAR Techs). These individuals are highly trained specialists who provide on-scene medical attention and rescue for aviators, mariners and others in distress in remote or hard-to-reach areas. Trained in advanced trauma life-support, land and sea survival, specialized rescue techniques, including Arctic rescue, parachuting, diving, mountain-climbing and rappelling, these men and women have saved thousands of lives nationwide. There are approximately 160 SAR Techs currently serving in the CF. (Canadian Air Force website)

Joel Manaigre, Eric Beaudoin, Ben Rasmussen and Carl Portman (along with the other SAR Techs) cover the huge middle zone.
Day 1: Hanfer Creek

Ben and Carl consulting the GPS. Hmm...

Carl Portman topping-out under snow mushrooms

Eric Beaudoin shows his style

Day 2: Evan Thomas Creek

SAR team sending at Evan Thomas Crk.

Mike Stuart getting secure.

Carl Portman looking relaxed in the cave on Moonlight top of P1

Carl above the trees on P2 of Moonlight

Now what?

Good climbing even if this jacket looks pink in the photo.

It was a real pleasure to work with these four professionals. I hope that none of us ever need a rescue, but if we do, it's great to now that the Canadian Forces have these guys to come and get you.

I'll have a video of the training in a few days.

Riptide with Josh Lavigne

2011-01-11T18:49:00.000-08:00

Here is a video from my good friend and fellow guide Josh Lavigne. Hope you enjoy our little adventure.

When Josh first posted this I was still wearing a neck collar and had limited use of my right arm due to the nerve damage that occurred during my little fall. Now I feel about 90% and I am as motivated as ever to get out and have fun in the hills.

Riptide from Joshua Lavigne on Vimeo.

Advanced Ice: 1 on 1 with Peter Heinz, for On Top Mountaineering

2011-01-11T18:07:00.000-08:00

Peter and I share something in common. We love ice climbing.
That's why he drove up from Seattle, WA. so I could help him hone his ice climbing skills with an advanced ice course for On Top Mountaineering.

Conditions were perfect with mild temps, fat ice. With the holidays wrapped up we had our pick of venues. The goal for our time together was for Peter to improve is skill and confidence on steep ice and work on multi-pitch routes.

Day 1: We enjoyed a social day, with many friends, at Hafner Creek to warm up with some laps on some steep ice and refresh Peter's ice technique. Lots of top roping was a good way to try leash-less and try out tethers (or not).

Day 2: Getting down to business in King Creek.

Mock-lead in king Creek.

Putting it all together. Peter on the sharp-end.

Day 3
Professor Falls: Classic WI4 rockies multi-pitch ice.

Peter topping out P3

Peter Heinz leads P4 in style.

This was our 3rd day together. We worked well, belay changes were swift. After leaving Canmore a 0630 we were at the last pitch before 1100.

A great 3 days! Lots of learning, climbing and laughs.

Thanks to Peter Heinz and Jorg at On Top.

Professor Falls with Jim and Ian Farkas for On Top Mountaineering

2011-01-02T15:19:00.000-08:00

Jim and Ian came up to Canada for some multi-pitch ice climbing with On Top Mountaineering. I guided them on Professor Falls in Banff National Park.
The guys did great and we all enjoyed the warm temps and good conditions.

Professor Falls with Jim and Ian Farkas for On Top Mountaineering from John Freeman on Vimeo.

Umbilicals aka Tethers aka "Forget me nots"

2010-12-26T05:55:00.001-08:00

So, like most of us you are climbing "leash-less" and now you are thinking what's to stop me dropping my tools half way up the route. On ice it usually isn't a problem since you can place the tool well into the ice and it will take care of itself. Muti-pitch mixed lines or Alpine routes are a different deal. Dropping a tool can be a big pain the ass, a day ender or worse. For the Petzl Nomic this is what I found to work best. A version of the same will work on most tools.

I have found that on hard ice (for me) the tethers are more likely to get hooked on ice features so I stow them or leave them at home.

Ingredients: Tool, 3mm cord, electrical tape, "Magic" tape.

Knot is hidden in handle. Loop is small.

Wrap of electrical tape keeps the cord in place. Bolt for grip adjuster is still accessible.

Magic tape is grippy, cheap and doesn't ice like hock tape

Grivel tether clipped-in. BD makes similar or you can fashion your own

These tethers are rated for 3kn. The cord isn't that strong so if you do fall on to the tether the cord will brake before the tether. Yes, I have personally tested this. In a way I feel that this is a good thing since the gold 'biner hurt enough and the tool flying at you would really suck.

Rob Smith on The Real Big Drip P1. Happy hands and tools

Disclaimer: Climbing is a bout personal responsibility, choice and has loads of hazard. You make your choices, not me. I hope this helps and works for you but if it doesn't , well... This post is only my personal way of doing this and is intended as information only.